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Sustainability in the fashion industry has become a major concern worldwide due to concerns over mass production, waste, and its contribution to climate change. More and more people are starting to reject the idea of "fast fashion". Typically associated with high street shops, this refers to cheap, low-quality clothing that is thrown away after a few wears. The last few years have also seen an increased demand for brands to be transparent about their ethical practices and carbon footprint, so that consumers feel they have made informed choices when it comes to purchasing sustainably.
Cashmere is viewed as a desirable luxury material due to its extreme softness and warmth, as well as the gruelling process it takes to produce a single cashmere garment. The sustainability of cashmere has often been questioned for a number of reasons. There have been issues surrounding the destruction of natural grasslands, caused by the grazing of cashmere goats.
Still, it is important to recognise that some companies have started taking great steps in reducing these effects, striving towards a more sustainable cashmere production process.
Is Cashmere Sustainable?
While responsibly sourced cashmere can be sustainable, traditional production methods often raise issues such as overgrazing, environmental harm, and unethical farming practices.
There are a number of key areas which can help to determine whether or not cashmere is sustainable. One of the main factors to consider is whether the cashmere fibre has been chemically treated or combined with another fibre. Untreated cashmere is completely biodegradable, however cashmere is often treated with chemicals and dyes during the production process which means that it cannot safely break down. Cashmere can often be blended with other fibres, both natural and synthetic, and this can also affect biodegradability.
Welfare standards are another issue to consider. In terms of animal welfare, cashmere goats are reared in freezing temperatures, sometimes as low as -40°C, during the winter. However, their fleece is only combed for cashmere during the spring season when they begin moulting, and so this should not impact their insulation. Still, during the winter, it is necessary that they are provided with proper shelter against these harsh conditions. It is also necessary to look at the extended cashmere supply chain to ensure all parties are given a fair wage, from the nomadic herders who care for the goats to the knitters who produce our cashmere sweaters.
Sustainable grazing is another factor that must be considered when it comes to the environmental impact of cashmere. Overgrazing has had an instrumental impact when it comes to land degradation, particularly in China and Mongolia. Cashmere goats have incredibly sharp hooves, which can damage the ground underneath them, and they also destroy plants by eating the whole plant down to the root, preventing re-growth. Some farmers have begun to implement rotational grazing in an effort to be more environmentally friendly, as this allows the grasslands to recover from the impact of the goat herds.
Cashmere is highly sought after as it is a luxury fibre. At the moment, the production of cashmere cannot meet the demand for it, and this impacts the environment in a number of different ways. As goat herders are desperately trying to meet the demand, this has led to more goats, and therefore more grazing. This, in turn, leads to increased soil erosion and a loss of biodiversity, creating a fragile dry land which was once rich with plants and wildlife. It also leads to an increased use of water and chemicals, which are used in the washing and dyeing process.
What Are the Environmental Concerns with Cashmere?
While some herders have started to instigate change and are now practising rotational grazing, this is not done by all, which can have significant consequences. Overgrazing and the impact of climate change have led to an estimated 70-90% of Mongolia's land being deemed fragile dry land, under increasing threat of desertification.
Another impact of the way the goats graze is the loss of biodiversity. As the goats eat the plants and grass all the way to the root, this prevents re-growth, and in turn a loss of the plant species. This can also affect the entire ecosystem, as it takes food and habitat away from the birds and insects, causing them to move or die out.
Unfortunately, the production of most natural animal fibres will have an environmental impact, and this is due to the fact that large quantities of greenhouse gas emissions and water are used in the process. Traditional cashmere production is arguably the worst when it comes to C02 emissions for natural fibres, compared to similar materials such as merino and sheep's wool. However, there are some benefits to cashmere over these other materials. For instance, cashmere lasts for years and years, and is also biodegradable, which helps to reduce land pollution and waste.
At the Cashmere Centre, we take environmental practices and concerns very seriously and do as much as we can to promote sustainability. We offer a recycling service in which customers send their old garments to us, to either be sent to a women's charity or be made into accessories made from recycled materials. We also have a very popular repair service to help reduce waste and ensure our customers get as much use out of their sweaters as possible. If you want to find out more, have a look at our Sustainability page.
Ethical Considerations in Cashmere Production
Conventional farming often involves large, intensive herds to try to maximise the yield of cashmere wool, and this leads to issues involving overgrazing and land degradation. Ethical farming, on the other hand, ensures more space for the goats and takes into account more sustainable farming methods such as rotational grazing. It also involves the goats being hand-combed to collect the fleece, rather than shearing, which can be more distressing to the animal. Combing does not harm the goats at all, as they are laid down without restraint, and moult their hair naturally. You can easily tell the difference between conventional and ethical farming by looking at the quality of the cashmere. The happier the goats are, the better quality the fibres are.
It can be difficult to judge the labour conditions in cashmere-producing regions as they vary. In many areas, nomadic herders are still the norm, and so it is difficult to keep track of the conditions of every herder. Many local communities depend on the income from this traditional method of farming, and so it is vital that they receive fair wages for the goods they supply.
There are a couple of things that consumers can look out for to ensure they are buying ethical cashmere. Mainly, transparency in the supply chain is important to look for to ensure the animals are being cared for and that there are fair wages throughout the supply chain. Also, there are certain organisations which offer certifications on the environmental and human rights impact of the supply of cashmere. As well as this, the standard of the cashmere is also a good indicator of whether it has been ethically sourced, with higher grades usually meaning the goats are treated better.
At the Cashmere Centre, we care deeply about ethical trading and fair pricing. We are very proud of our strong links with our factory in Nepal, and our team regularly visits them to check their working conditions and the positive impact of the work on the community.
What is Sustainable Cashmere?
Sustainable cashmere is produced using environmentally friendly and ethical methods, focusing on animal welfare and fair labour practices. Standard cashmere is more focused on producing higher yields, and because of this, does not factor in sustainability to the same extent.
Responsible brands source cashmere in an eco-friendly way by prioritising land management, such as through rotational grazing, as well as the welfare of the cashmere goats by hand combing rather than shearing them. As well as this, some brands are now using eco-friendly dyeing techniques to reduce the use of toxic chemicals and water.
There are several independent worldwide bodies which certify the use of ethical and sustainable cashmere, such as the Good Cashmere Standard and the Global Organic Textile Standard. These both look at the entire supply chain to ensure ethical and environmental practices.
Alternatives to Conventional Cashmere
Many of the issues with the sustainability of cashmere are to do with virgin cashmere, which refers to completely new fibres. This has led to a rise in the popularity of more sustainable alternatives, such as recycled cashmere and wool. Here at the Cashmere Centre, we embrace the idea of recycled cashmere, which is why we have our own recycling service. We take old, unwearable garments to be produced into new pieces to be sold on the website, such as our Recycled Child's Cashmere Wristwarmers and Hats.
There are so many environmental benefits to using recycled cashmere, with one of the main benefits being that it produces fewer wasted garments to be sent to the landfill. It also has a lower carbon footprint than traditional cashmere, as it requires less energy than producing the fibre from scratch. Offering this alternative lowers the demand for new cashmere, which reduces the environmental impacts of virgin cashmere, which have been discussed.
How to Buy Cashmere Responsibly
When shopping for sustainable cashmere, there are a couple of things to look out for. Most important is the brand's transparency- are they open about where they source their cashmere and what they are doing to remain sustainable? Pricing is another key point to look at. In many cases, cheaper cashmere has been mass-produced. This involves more intense production practices, which have a significant environmental impact, as well as lower quality fibres being used. Similarly, quality can also be an indicator of sustainability, as higher quality cashmere will last longer and produce less waste.
Cashmere lasts for years when properly cared for, so there are also several things that consumers can do to make the most of their cashmere garments and extend their lifespan. Correct washing and drying are so important to keep the shape and quality of the garment, and if you want to know more, take a look at our blog on How to Wash Cashmere. Proper storage is also essential to prevent damage to the clothing from moths and dust. Finally, repairing signs of wear and tear is more sustainable than throwing away the garment and purchasing another, as it helps reduce wasted materials.
Why Choose High-Quality, Ethically Sourced Cashmere?
Investing in premium, responsibly sourced cashmere supports sustainability by prioritising ethical and eco-friendly production practices. This involves a lower carbon footprint, fair labour practices and wages for the herders, as well as animal welfare.
Good quality cashmere is an incredibly durable and long-lasting fibre, and by investing in these pieces, you reduce the need for constant new purchases of fast fashion.
Consumers play a massive part in the sustainability of the cashmere industry, and so by choosing ethical and sustainable brands, they are making a conscious choice to support sustainability. Consumers create the demand, and at the moment, the industry cannot keep up with this, meaning it's even more important to be mindful when purchasing cashmere.
Explore Our Sustainable Cashmere Collection
To browse our luxury, ethically sourced cashmere knitwear, see below:
From a super soft cashmere scarf to everyday essentials such as socks and gloves, check out our extensive range of cashmere accessories here!
We have everything you could possibly need to care for your garments properly, from cashmere shampoo to cedar and storage products. Browse our range of care products here.
Here at the Cashmere Centre, we are committed to responsible sourcing. We reject mass production and fast fashion, striving to only order what is needed, to prevent waste and limit demand.